Friday 19 September 2014

Sommerfrische - on how the Viennese decamp to the countryside during the Summer months



To non - German speakers the word „Sommerfrische“ might sound like a gaudily packaged brand of air freshener available in your local supermarket. However this rather quaint word used in Austrian German evocatively describes the annual exodus by the Viennese or indeed other Austrian city dwellers during the months of July and August to their Summer residences in the country.

And like with so many things Austrian, “Sommerfrische” has tradition and a fairly impressive infra-structure supporting it. Its origins lie in the nineteenth century when thanks to the recent industrialisation, the burgeoning middle classes were experiencing unprecedented wealth and were not slow in decamping along with the aristocracy from Vienna to the fashionable countryside. Semmering, Wienerwald and further afield Salzkammergut became very popular areas in which to establish a second household.

This of course was supported by substantial investment in developing a good railway system. Through the construction of the Westbahn, Südbahn and the famous Semmeringbahn during the mid 19th century, destinations that had required many hours, even days travelling could now be reached within a day. Kaiser Franz Josef, still known in Austria today as “the” Kaiser disappeared every Summer, preferring to spend time in his beloved villa in Bad Ischl rather than in the heat of the city. If the Kaiser looked forward to Summer, his enthusiasm was not shared by the local wildlife… 
The Kaiser Villa - Bad Ischl












Fast forward to the 21st Century and what started 150 years ago with the aristocracy and wealthy industrialists has permeated to just about all sectors of society. Whether through purchasing their own or by inheriting an inexpensive lease, so many people seem to have (access to) some form of holiday home be it a hut type structure attached to a garden allotment somewhere in Weinviertel or a rather lavish “turn of the century” pad on Attersee. The mass exodus occurs as soon as the schools break up at the beginning of July. The effect is to be seen in Vienna. Empty streets, little traffic, smiles on faces, a much more relaxed and friendly atmosphere. It is as if the city, its constituent parts and inhabitants breathe a collective sigh of relief as it is at last free again to cast off the city role and become again the collection of villages they would really much prefer to be.

With the exception of one or two “hotspots” the only crowds around are tourists but these are easily absorbed. Vienna’s “Bezirk” or District system has provided for that. Each District originates from what was a village or town which in time has become swallowed up by the greater city. Yes, this is how cities evolve, but in Vienna the Districts have retained their own distinctive feel with in most cases, flourishing mainstreets and shops.  These are very definitely not homogeneous suburbs and offer a very substantial infra-structure to the inhabitants. The apparently ready supply of retail outlet space at presumably favourable enough rates means that it is not unusual to see signs posted in a shop window in a district very near to the centre: 

“July 1st – August 31st. closed for holidays. See you in September.”
   
In what other European capital would you see that?

Who knows how long it will be before these signs disappear altogether. Rents in Vienna are in European and world terms already quite high and are rising as the demand for office space and private accommodation grows. The prognosis is that Vienna’s population will rise to over 2 million by the year 2030 from its current level of 1.77. The building industry is very optimistic about the future..

This “closure” during the months of July and August might be a source of inconvenience and stress to those trying to get things done before the break. However, with the Summer now fading and the pace of life increasing as the Autumn rhythms are restored, those of us who could experience the easier way of life in Vienna during “Sommerfrische” say it was very welcome.

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